March 29th 2016. Hamlet in Stratford.

We spent Easter weekend in Stratford. Robin made hot cross buns in honour of the occasion.

Nice buns!

The weather was changeable, including some thundering rain on Monday morning, but as soon as the rain stopped the trippers and their entertainments were out in force again. We ate our late breakfast to the sound of drumming and discovered Morris dancers doing their thing on the bank opposite.

We were serenaded by this lot all day on Monday! You can see the Swan theatre in the background.

We did some Shakespeare touristing; seeing his birthplace and the church where he is buried. We particularly enjoyed going up the tower of the Royal Shakespeare Company Swan Theatre and looking down on the town and the river. It was really windy and the noise up there was terrific, making it particularly atmospheric (Robin) / scary (Jo).

 

Looking down on the canal basin. Harold is hiding behind a tree.

The River Avon, just where the lock takes you through from the canal.

The River Avon heading South to Tewkesbury.
The church spire you can see is where Shakespeare is buried. 

However, the highlight of our stay was seeing a brilliant performance of Hamlet at the theatre on Monday night. It was Robin's first live Shakespeare play and he loved it!

 

We had considered going down the Avon to Tewkesbury, where we would link up with the Severn going North. However, it's not an easy river with fast changes in levels and perhaps best left to summertime. We'll be glad of an excuse to come back to Stratford anyway. So on Tuesday we left the way we came in, travelling 3.5 miles and going back up the 15 locks. It started to rain shortly before we reached the top so we moored near to what was supposed to be Shakespeare Mothers house which we'll go and have a look at tomorrow morning, just to finish off our visit to Shakespeare country.    

 

 

 

 



March 24th and 25th. From nowhere to Stratford-upon-Avon

On Thursday we pottered through open countryside. We stopped for fuel at the Anglo-Welsh boatyard. The diesel pump is just before a short aqueduct. Thankfully there wasn't anyone coming the other way.

Harold moored on the aqueduct while filling up with diesel. 

A bit further on we crossed the Edstone aqueduct, which is higher and longer and enough to send Jo down below to pretend it's  not happening. The aqueduct crosses a river, road and railway line.

With just one lock to do, we moored in the middle of nowhere. In the night, just as we were going to sleep, we heard a loud bang and then more noises and banging on the roof. Robin investigated, only to find a posse of ducks waddling around and making free with our daffodils. He was naked (having been disturbed in bed) which scared them off immediately.

On Good Friday we had an upsetting start to the day with sad news from home. Somewhat distracted, we set off earlyish to beat the hire boats to Stratford. We saw our first ducklings, clearly just hatched. Hopefully the weather this weekend won't be bad enough to do them any harm.

There is a long flight of 15 locks down into Stratford and we were lucky enough to have the help of 2 volunteer lock keepers for the steep middle bit. It certainly made it a bit quicker and easier on the locker's back.  As with most towns the canal comes into Stratford the back way, through industrial areas and housing estates. It was a lovely sunny day and at the last 4 locks nearer the centre of town, the gongoozalers were out in force; helping and chatting and getting in the way.

After the last few days in a sea of greenery, it was something of a shock to arrive in the Stratford canal basin. There were people everywhere milling about in the sun, buskers singing and crowds clapping street entertainers. We moored on a pontoon near Shakespeare's statue and went for an short explore to orient ourselves.  We will be here for a few days while the Easter weekend weather blows though and then plan to set off down the River Avon to Tewksbury.

More trouble with ducks after the daffs! Shakespeare statue is in the background.

Everyone was having fun on the River Avon in Stratford today.

Harold moored in the Basin, with the Royal Shakespeare Company theatre in the background.

March 23rd 2016. Many a lock and Anthony Gormley.

We worked our way towards Stratford. Its slow progress; 14 locks in just 3 miles (all but one against us). However, the countryside is nice and, apart from the hire boat following us, we only met one other boat on the move and just a handful of walkers and cyclists. Standing around at locks gives ample opportunity for watching the many sheep and lambs in the fields around.

 

Some of the locks have bridges, a particular design with a gap across the middle for the horse's rope when the canal was first built. It does bring home yet again how old this technology is!  

A bridge with a gap for the rope to pass through - to save having to untie it each time the towpath changes sides.

At lock 31, Lowonsford, is an Anthony Gormley statue, standing looking down into the lock.

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We moored a little way beyond the last lock. Tomorrow, the first few miles will be virtually lock free (ah! lovely!) before another long flight on the way into Stratford itself.  

22nd March 2016. A new canal.

We cruised the few miles to the Kingswood junction, where the Grand Union meets the Stratford-on-Avon Canal. We went through Shrewley Tunnel with its distinctive separate tunnel for the towpath.

Shrewdly Tunnel

Apart from the locks and tunnel, canals use cuttings and embankments to cope with the ups and downs of the landscape. The canal ran high here on an embankment giving us pretty views.

We stopped for Scooby's lunchtime walk near a smallholding. These goats were very splendid and we particularly liked these two sitting on this pallet as if it were a rocky outcrop!

 

 

At Kingswood turning we could go straight on to Birmingham but instead opted to turn left into the Stratford canal. Its a narrow canal, so we squeezed through the entrance and into the first narrow lock.

The narrow entrance to the Stratford Canal.

The domed roof of the lock keepers house just after the turning.
Apparently the navies used the same skills as for bridges.

 

We didn't go on for much longer, wanting to stop short of the M4 crossing for a peaceful night. Walks were walked and bread and cakes baked so we were all ready to set off again in the morning.

March 21st. The Hatton Locks!

After a lovely weekend with family and friends, we settled back onto the boat on Sunday. On Monday morning we faffed about a bit. Robin cycled to Sainsbury's to get all the things we had forgotten to bring back. Eventually we took the plunge and set off towards the Hatton Locks. In the next 5 hours we travelled 2 miles and went up 21 locks with just one cup of tea on the way! At the bottom we met a couple of volunteer lock keepers who said they were going for their lunch but would catch us up. That was the last we saw of them and we did the flight on our own. We got a good routine going and it all went pretty smoothly, although the paddles were very hard going! The locks go round in a big curve so you can't see them all at once but ...

..looking up from here they were quite daunting..

...and looking the other way you can see some of the ones we had already done.


Further on (almost at the top-only 4 more to go) you can look back to one of Warwick's church spires in the
distance and see how far and high you have come.

We moored thankfully at the top at around 5.30. It's in a cutting and there is clearly a sheep field on the far side as these lambs had escaped to eat interesting things among the trees. They were very sure footed of course, and fun to watch but their mothers were making a great racket trying to persuade them back into the field!    

 

 

We are now in uncharted territory (for us) and tomorrow we will head for the Kingswood Junction and the Stratford-on-Avon canal.



14-16 March 2016. Into Warwick.

After a truly ghastly meal at the Blue Lias (which we remembered as being quite good before) on Sunday evening, we spent the night on their mooring. There has been lots of flooding around their lakes and caravan site and it was all still very soggy. Monday started slowly and we set off through the remaining two Stockton and then the four Bascote locks. After that there was a lock every half mile or so, just short of long enough o make a cup of tea. We moored at Bulls bridge, where we stopped last time we were here. This foolish swan had made her nest actually on the towpath which, now we are near to Leamington Spa was busy with walkers, cyclists and joggers.

You can't help feeling its not going to go well for her. Silly bird.

 The canal ahead went directly west and we were treated to a lovely sunset on an evening walk.

 

The next day we went on into Warwick and to our mooring at Saltisford, Warwick. We are going home for a few days and will be back on Sunday.

Harold slips into the Saltisford Arm.

12th and 13th of March. To the Blue Lias.

We spent Saturday on our mooring below Calcutt, watching the rugby and doing odd jobs. There is a chandlers at Calcutt marina and Robin bought a new horn to replace the existing one, which hasn't been working too well :)

Sunday morning was chilly to start with but soon warmed up as the sun came out. We travelled 3 miles and went through the first 8 of the Stockton locks with a nice couple on a hire boat. She was also scared of heights and it was quite challenging having two scaredy cats working the locks. Jo passed on tips for managing double locks on your own and tucking the windless down your top as a makeshift holster. Robin and her husband managed the boats and talked about rugby.

We moored at the Blue Lias pub which we remember from our way down as having good food as well as a good mooring and we'll stay here tonight and have dinner. Robin can also enjoy a pint while watching (yet more) rugby this afternoon. Onwards tomorrow, to Leamington Spa Tesco's!

Our mooring at The Blue Lias

9-11 March. High and low water.

We realised that our walk was definitely off when we woke to water up to the top of the bank. Robin was adjusting ropes in the early hours. When he and Scooby went for their morning walk they saw this empty boat tied tightly by its centre rope and leaning dangerously. Robin loosened the rope and got it back upright again.

You can see the water is almost level with the top of the bank. 

And the towpath is one long puddle!

Back upright again.

By the next day they must have opened a sluice somewhere because the water level had gone right down to much lower that usual. We decided to stay put until it all settled down a bit. We pottered about and explored as much of the surrounding countryside as we could. It seemed like there was water everywhere and for a while a lot of the towpath was impassable. Everything got extremely muddy and we feel fortunate to have a washing machine on board.

 



One of the canal overflows which would normally be dry pouring water from the canal into nearby fields.

By Friday all looked well and the sun had come out, if hazily.

 

One of the many little hills around here, in the hazy morning sunshine.

We set off to turn around and head back to the junction which would take us towards Warwick.

The signpost to Warwick.

Looking back after the turn to the canal we have spend so much time on this winter.

As the day went on the sun got stronger and by the time we got to Calcutt marina to fill up with water our coats were off.

The first of the Calcutt locks. Back to double width now (you can see the old single one next to it that was replaced
when the canal was widened in the 1930s) and the candlestick mechanisms.

We easily got through the 3 locks, just working one side to save Jo crossing the high gates, and moored a little further on in a sunny spot.

 

 

Harold moored. With the birdfeeders up and the daffodils out, he looks very homely :)

Robin got his paddleboard out and discovered the challenges of staying aboard when a boat comes past creating and interesting wash....

 

We'll continue on tomorrow towards the Stockton locks which should be opened by the end of today after their 3 month closure. 

8th March 2016. A Zander in Lower Shuckburgh.

We have spent a few days in Napton on the Hill. It's a nice place to moor with all facilities, a pub and shop. There's also good walks and we walked up to the top of the hill, finding both the windmill and the church and some fabulous views! It also has a very nice village shop with en-suite café which we visited on our way back down; very nice tea and a slice of cake. Although we did have to stop Scooby biting the postman as he came to collect the mailbags.

The hill and windmill from the canal

The windmill from the top. its privately owned and occupied. The views from the rooms must be stunning.

St Lawrence's church.

The churchyard was covered in wild primroses.

As our route north will not be clear until Friday, Robin pulled up the OS maps website for the area and found another hill along a bit at Lower Shuckburgh for us to try. We cruised 3 miles up the canal but couldn't find a mooring in exactly the right spot. However, there was some a bit further on and we joined a number of other boats spread along a mile or so of open countryside. Robin remembered seeing fellow anglers fishing for zander along here and got his rod out once we'd stopped. Surprisingly, and possibly even alarmingly, he caught one almost immediately!

 



The zander. About a 1lb in weight apparently...

 

We'll go for our walk tomorrow if the weather isn't too dire.



2nd and 3rd of March. Dylan to the rescue!

On Tuesday night it tipped it down, including hail bouncing off the roof. The next morning was wet and very windy. We waited till it dried up and set off bravely, with only the wind to contend with.


The clouds here are skidding along and you can see the surface of the canal chopped up by the wind.
 

We went past the three wise sheep. They stood stock still in this position with the wind blowing their
fleece around. Daft creatures!

We had gone about 2 miles when on a corner the boat suddenly lost all power. Fortunately the tow path bank was suitable for mooring. Robin immediately turned the boat towards the bank and Jo jumped off with a rope and we got secure very quickly. It could have been a lot worse in the strong wind!
Robin had a look and saw the gearbox was leaking oil. He phoned the River Canal Rescue (our version of the AA) and they put his in touch with one of their engineers. It was 3pm by now and when we looked on the map we realised that we were a mile and a half walk from the nearest road at Marston Doles. The engineer sensibly arranged to come out to us in the morning. He also said it was a common fault and should be easily fixed. Phew! We settled in for the night.

Our emergency mooring was right opposite this pillbox, built (believe it or not) in the second world war to defend against Germans using the canal during their invasion. There are quite a few on this stretch of canal.

 On Thursday morning, while we were waiting for our engineer, the hunt came through the adjoining field with lots of excited whining and boohalooing.


First we heard them and then we saw the dogs fanning out across the field. They weren't interested in the sheep in the field, although the sheep didn't look to happy.



Then the riders all came along, loads of them all squeezing through the gate.

 

And then they all turned around and came back again! 

At one point the dogs all swarmed along the towpath. Scooby was not impressed.



After this excitement had died down, we spotted our engineer  plodding along the towpath after his long walk to find us. Dylan (for that was his name) very efficiently changed a seal on the gearbox and got us going again. We gave him a lift to Marlton Doles and then we carried on towards Napton. Several miles and nine locks later stopped for water, loo and rubbish before nipping round the corner and mooring for the night at the back of The Folly pub. Crisis, what crisis?!