25th - 30th August. A bank holiday diversion.

On Thursday we stopped after Willeymoor lock and went to the pub there for dinner. A mediocre meal. On Friday we got to the nice mooring by the swingbridge in Whitchurch, where we were joined by Iris and her crew. A pleasant evening was spent sitting on the bank chatting (some drinking was also involved).  Later there was a red sunset, boding well for the bank holiday weekend.

Harold and Iris under a red sky.

We met friend Carole in Ellesmere on Saturday and she helped us stock up with heavy shopping in the very convenient Tescos there. There was a bit of a do going on in the town and there were boats everywhere. We were moored just by the turning for the arm, with Iris behind us, and were entertained (and once rammed) by boaters manouvering the turning. In the evening we had a lovely dinner with Carole and Sean and on Sunday they joined us for the journey back to Whitchurch. Having visitors, we stopped for a towpath picnic lunch, in only light rain. The canal was  busy, providing some challenges for the helmsmen (especially learner Sean!), with hire boats everywhere, although it seemed mostly at the many bridges and tight corners.

 
Bank holiday Monday was warm and sunny. We stopped at the top of the Grindley Brook flight for breakfast at their nice café. We were glad of the sustenance because once Harold was in the 3 rise, the lock-keepers weren't paying attention and got the levels in the middle all wrong. Harold got stuck on the bottom while they were topping up the middle lock. Fortunately Robin noticed in time and shouted for them to stop. He got free but then stuck again on the sill going into the bottom lock. Quite apart from getting stuck, the boat was tossed about all over the place while they were trying to sort out the levels, but the lock-keepers didn't make sure Robin or the boat were ok and just ignored him.  We were very relieved when Harold finally made it out of the bottom lock.  Fortunately the day got better and we stopped at Wrenbury where Robin fished and paddle-boarded in the evening sunshine.
On Tuesday we made a fairly early start under a rather grey sky. The canal continued to be busy, with other boats at every lock. The sun came out and we stopped at the top of the Hurleston locks for water and a Scooby walk, then waited our turn to go down the flight. 

Waiting at the top.

The Hurleston Flight; boats everywhere!

At the bottom we turned right and on to moor at Nantwhich. We are back on the Shroppie now, heading South towards Birmingham and home.

Our diversion to Ellesmere was 52 miles in all, with 40 locks and sunshine :)

23rd and 24th of August. Sunshine!

And indeed there was sunshine on the Shroppie. On Tuesday we shopped and were just unpacking when Iris caught up with us and moored next door. After lots of chat we set off and made five miles and one lock. We tried but failed to moor in a spot with a lovely view - defeated by the edge shelf which was too wide for our fenders to stop the boat banging.

The mooring we missed.

We went on and found another mooring place with a tree for shade and a picnic table. The lovely weather tempted out the BBQ again and we sat out with our food and Scooby and watched many happy boats going by.
We were expecting a cool cloudy day on Wednesday but instead it was bright and warm. We stopped at Aqueduct marina for diesel, gas and more gromits, plus a nice brunch in their café. We got in just before the party of 20 cyclists! A few more miles and one lock got us to the end of the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire and we turned briefly onto the main line before turning off again onto the Llangollen. There was no lock-keeper at the lock flight and the pounds were quite low. Robin got into an altercation with a very rude skipper who couldn't control his boat. However, it was too hot and the view too nice to argue for long. We had a mooring in mind and pottered on. The countryside is properly rural now with lots of cows. Such restful animals, standing around in bunches.  

It clouded over, with just one patch of blue remaining, but the rain didn't come and the light was lovely in the evening. The mooring was quiet; Robin caught 2 roach and a bream, Jo finished her book and Scooby slept.

Our quiet mooring.

And then later on, the omens were good for the day tomorrow, perhaps the forecasters will be wrong again.

This photo was taken about 8.30pm from the side hatch.

22nd August 2016. Middlewich Narrows.

After a night of hammering rain on the roof, it was a wet, warmish morning. The canal was narrower and busier than we have been used to of late and the landscape a mixture of rural and industrial, including the TATA chemical works. After seven miles we arrived at the outskirts of Middlewich and a single wide lock, called appropriately the Big Lock. After that Robin had to negotiate Harold into his first narrow lock in about 300 miles.

Its a bit squeezy in here!

After this and two others in the Middlewich flight, we needed to turn right off the Trent and Mersey onto the Middlewich branch of the Shropshire Union. After a wait behind four other boats also going up Wardle lock at the turning (the disadvantage of narrow locks, of course), we finally got through and moored just about where we did on the way down. We are a bit short of supplies so we'll shop tomorrow morning before heading off again. Perhaps we'll even get some sunshine now we are back on the Shroppie...

Waiting at the junction

20th and 21st Of August 2016. Harold and the Rainbow.

On Friday evening we tried to take a walk with Scooby, but were curtailed by returning showers. We saw this rainbow, and then found Harold at the end of it.

We decided to try again on Saturday morning and went on a circular walk which took us down to the River Weaver and the Dutton lock. This river lock is 125 feet long and 41 feet wide - making the narrow boat we watched going up it look like a toy. The lock-keeper was friendly though and said all the locks are staffed and the river all canalised. Maybe 2018 when we are back up with way again.

Looking down towards the river from our mooring. The arched structure in the centre is over the weir by the lock. 

In the afternoon Jo went to the garden centre in Dutton village which had a lovely open garden and a self service tea room (you make your own and pay at the till on your way out!). Heavy showers and high winds kept us where we were, although we moved a few feet forward to get out from under the trees. In the early evening a kingfisher fished from our boat. We saw him swoop down past the windows and back again with a fish. We even heard him bash it on the roof to kill it.

On Sunday we set off after the other three boats at the mooring had already gone - we are always the last to leave. It was cloudy and showery but the wind had dropped. We pottered down to Anderton via the Saltersford and Barnton tunnels, stopping at the boat lift for a good lunch and some books from their nice shop. After another stop, this time at the services, we went on to the Lion Salt Works which has a new museum. We moored up at about quarter to five to find that it closes at five and doesn't open on Mondays. Oh well! Off to Middlewich tomorrow then, where there are proper locks, the first since Wigan.

17th-19th August 2016. Out of Manchester.

On Wednesday we travelled 11 miles around Manchester, with short shop stops at the Trafford Centre and in Sale. We passed the turn into Manchester and crossed the Manchester Ship canal.

The Manchester Ship Canal looking towards the centre of Manchester

and towards Liverpool.

This young Heron stayed stock still as we went past, and also as a cyclist sped along right next to him on the towpath. Obviously a city bird.

It was slow going past many moored boats but we didn't mind on such a beautiful day. The straight and made-up towpath of the Bridgewater canal were awash with people enjoying the weather and the water.

 
We moored once we were outside the city in a rural spot where there were several other boats. It was warm by now and we settled down to sit in the sun. Gradually all the other boats left bar one and we wondered.... However, another joined us and we had a safe and peaceful night.
In the morning we set off for Lymm, a pretty village just 3 miles away. We took the last mooring spot in glorious sunshine and spent 24 hours enjoying the shops and cafes. We used our barbeque for only the second time this year - its not been that sort of summer. In the afternoon Iris turned up and we went for a drink with Roger, her captain.

On Friday it poured with rain. We set off anyway, Robin in his Musto gear and Jo hoovering and faffing about inside. We stopped at Midland Chandlers for grommits and then went through the Preston Brook tunnel. After the tunnel, a floodlock marks where the Bridgewater canal becomes the Trent and Mersey. After 12 soggy miles, we moored at a spot Robin spotted with a lovely view across to a viaduct over the river Weaver. Then the rain stopped and the sun came out :)

The view.

16th of August. Leaving the Leeds and Liverpool.

We left Crooke fairly early (for us) in glorious weather and were caught up at the first lock by narrow boat Ivy May, who had also been a neighbour in Salthouse Dock. We made our way through Wigan together and turned down the Leigh branch which will take us to the Bridgewater canal. This means we finally left the Leeds and Liverpool Canal (the longest in the country) after travelling it's whole 127 and 1/4 miles both ways. Its taken just over two months to travel the just over 250 miles.

Following Ivy May down the Leigh Branch and out of Wigan.

After six locks and seven and half miles we reached Plank Lane Road Bridge just in time for CRT to open it and let us through.

Looking back at Plank Lane Bridge.

After another nine miles we reached a nice mooring recommended to us by various of our Liverpool comrades. It was a warm sunny evening so Robin went for a paddleboard and then settled down to try and catch the enormous carp and pike he had spotted on the journey down.

Lovely weather for a paddle!

Tomorrow we dash round Manchester, stopping briefly at the Trafford Centre on the way (something about needing new pillowcases, Jo said..)

13th - 15th of August. A beautiful clean boat.

We spent the weekend tidying up Harold. Robin re-blacked the bottom down to the waterline, covering up the rust and knock marks. Then in a joint effort we washed him all over and gave him his first polish since being painted. We even moved across to the other side of the canal to do the other side!

He was much admired and the captain had a beer to celebrate.

On Saturday evening, as promised, we had a nice meal at The Windmill. We are making the most of the good food up here before we get back to the Shroppie which, while very lovely with nice narrow  locks, had dodgy food and limited Gs.
After a late night watching the Olympics Jo woke up on Monday morning with a nasty eye infection.  After a visit to the local GP, we eventually set off about 1pm.
Before leaving, we lent our anchor to Lynne and Jenny on Noga Louise who were moored next to us. They had also been our neighbours in Salthouse dock and now had passage booked across the Ribble Link, where an anchor is required equipment. They are also overwintering further south and will return it to us at Warwick later in the year. This means there will be no more rivers for us this season, we'll have to stick to canals, preferably narrow friendly ones!
The day was mostly sunny and warm and we covered just a few miles, including two locks, and moored at Crooke. We'll get through Wigan tomorrow and aim for Plank Bridge which is currently broken and only open at 2pm.

11th and 12th of July. To Parbold via the Ship.

On Thursday we made 13 miles, with short waits at the two swing bridges that CRT operate. It was very quiet (perhaps because it was freezing), although Jo met a very stressed lady crew member from a boat at swing bridge 11. The waterside was flooded and the prospect of getting wet feet while she operated the bridge was the last straw. She and Jo worked together and got it done. A heavy canal in nasty weather isn't always much of a holiday. Swing bridge 15 was broken so we had a tea and dog walk delay while CRT came to override it. After that we were out of the conurbation and looking for a mooring. After one failed attempt when the the wind swept Harold's nose across the canal before we could get tied up, we found a sheltered spot by The Ship pub at bridge 22. They did a very nice dinner too.

Harold at The Ship.

On Friday it looked a bit brighter and Robin dared the sun to come out properly by wearing his long trousers (usually he wears shorts May to October). We travelled 9 miles to Parbold, interspersed with swing bridges and a services stop at Burscough. Robin saw a red squirrel and two kingfishers. The countryside is changing in nature again, less green and more yellow as crops begin to be harvested.

Ripe wheat and and a brief period of blue sky

 We will stay in Parbold with its low bank for a couple of days to paint the side of the boat which didn't get done on the way up. The rust showing through has been made significantly worse by the salt water in the dock.

9th and 10th of August 2016. Goodbye to the docks.

On Tuesday we explored some of the museums and galleries inland. We had a drink in the Philharmonic pub, which has the only listed mens loo in the country!

The Gents in the Philly.

Robin went paddle-boarding, this time getting through the bridge into Albert dock, despite the wind threatening to blow him straight back out again.

Robin paddles under the bridge, just.

In the evening we went for a meal and a last look at the Mersey. After a night of heavy rain, Wednesday was dry but overcast and cold. We set off before eight with two other boats and, after doing a circuit of Albert dock while waiting for the barrier to be lowered, we set off.

Following our friends in Iris (leading) out of Albert dock.

Looking back at the CRT guys closing up the tidal lock.

Looking up at 'The Three Graces' as we pass.

and the museum of Liverpool - well worth a visit!

Making our way round the buoys and looking towards the container port.

The huge old tobacco warehouse by the lock flight which marks the end of our passage.

It was once the largest brick building in the world.

After that it was thanks to the CRT staff and back up the canal to Litherland visitor moorings. Back to ducks and lilies in the water rather than jellyfish and seagulls. The seagulls annoyed Robin by banging mussels on the roof to break them open.

We'll go to Tesco's this afternoon and set off South tomorrow, when we've decided which way to go. Our visit to Liverpool has been brilliant and we will come back.

4th - 8th of August 2016. Liverpool.

We extended our stay in Liverpool (having found a good grassy place to walk Scooby) to the full week and will leave early Wednesday morning. We've loved our stay here, having a proper sightseeing holiday. There have been some windy moments; Sunday night in particular when the winds howled around the dock and waves lapped around the bow. But there's also been lots of sunshine and, marvellously, hardly any rain. The docks are noisy and busy, but full of life. Its been sociable; we went for drinks with the crew of Iris and caught up with the crew of Chance (who we first met in Leeds) when they arrived on Sunday.
Here are some photos from our stay so far:

Jo did a walking tour of cathedrals; this is the Anglican Cathedral. It's huge, the biggest in the country.

And this is the Catholic cathedral, known as Paddy's Wigwam.

Robin chose a less breezy afternoon to go paddle-boarding in the dock.

We went on an open topped bus tour.

You can just see Harold in the foreground and the Albert dock buildings in the background.

This is the Poke-stop on the Mersey riverside!

Activity on the river was fun to watch. Two battleships moored for a few days

and then were replaced by a cruise liner. The boat in the foreground is the ferry to the Isle of Man.  

We went across the river on this Mersey ferry.

This is the Liverpool skyline, taken from the ferry.

The Albert docks from the river.

One sunny evening, we walked as far as we could up the route of the Liverpool Link we had sailed down to get here:

3rd of August 2016. Its a breezy passage into Salthouse Dock, Liverpool.

Our passage down the Liverpool link was booked for today. The link joins the canal to the Salthouse and Albert docks in the centre of Liverpool and was only opened for pleasure craft a few years ago. It goes along the side of the Mersey, through and under the riverside buildings. We set off from our mooring shortly after narrow boat Iris which had been moored next to us. An hour later we arrived at the first of the four Eldonian locks which mark the start of the link and which are operated by CRT staff. We shared these locks and the rest of the journey with Iris and her friendly crew.

Harold and Iris in the top lock.

It was windy and there was some doubt about whether we would be able to make the passage but the CRT chaps said we would be ok and issued their instructions. Harold, with Robin at the helm, led the way out of the bottom lock, across the first two very exposed and windy docks and into the start of the link, called here Sid's Ditch. Harold's engine was needed at full pelt to keep on track and there was some splashing of the crew in the front well deck.

Choppy waters in Salisbury docks.

In the link.

After Sid's Ditch there were more dock areas and the Liver Building appeared in front of us.

We went through the Princes Dock lock with Iris and then through the three link tunnels. Each time we came up for air we felt the carnival atmosphere, with bunting and a funfair and sightseers.

And we sailed right past the Liver Building.

After CRT got us through the last lock we were almost there; two right turns through Canning Dock and into Albert Dock and then two left into Salthouse.

The captain expertly steers us through Canning Dock.

The entrance to the famous Albert Dock and the Tate Gallery.

 There were some big boats about.

After a breezy and rather crashy manoeuvre we managed to get moored on our designated pontoon and then fended off the next two boats to come in as they crashed into us! With extra ropes (all creaking) we were secure and Robin went off to find some grass for Scooby to poo on. We are right in the centre of Liverpool with museums, Tate gallery, shopping centre and River Mersey all within spitting distance. Its wet, windy and choppy here in the dock, but we won't be short of things to do and see. We'll be here until early Sunday morning when our return passage out is booked.

Harold in Salthouse Dock, Liverpool.