Bristol - We made it!

22 miles and 11 locks.

Robin took Scooby for a long walk and, after a quick breakfast we set off for the 6 Bath locks at 8.30am. This flight includes Bath deep lock - at over 19 feet, the second deepest in the country.

Then we were on the river. After a few miles of Bath's back end, we emerged into countryside and it was pretty. The locks were manual and not too difficult. They were also well signed to make sure we avoided the weirs. The river was narrower than we were expecting, more like a canal in places. There was hardly any visitor mooring anywhere and most of what there was had WPs on it who had clearly been there some time.

As instructed we called the lock-keeper at Netham when we reached Hanham lock and then stopped to buy our 48 hour pass for the harbour (£55- so not cheap!). Then it was a few miles of the back end of Bristol before we emerged into the city centre. The skies had been threatening for most of the day and it rained hard but briefly as we arrived in the harbour.

We had a choice of three moorings and went for the one near a big park for Scoobs and opposite the SS Great Britain. Robin did an expert reverse onto the pontoon and we had arrived. It was exactly 5.30pm. There are tapas bars and such like in this little bit. We'll explore the rest later. The park has already got the thumbs up. We are paid up till Sunday and may extend until Tuesday if we like it. Its a good feeling to reach our intended destination and we should make the most of it. Its taken us almost 6 weeks to get here!

Slow Road to Bath

Tuesday: 200 yards!
Wednesday: 1.5 miles and one lock.
Thursday: 8 miles, 2 swing bridges.

On Tuesday morning we moved a short distance to a more secure mooring nearer the lock. The canal trust café is closed on Tuesdays which was good for our waistlines if not for our morale. We spent the day pottering about Bradford-on-Avon and, in the afternoon, went for a walk up to check out mooring at the Cross Guns at Avoncliff. We walked there along the river, which is in the valley, and back along the canal, which is quite high up on the hillside.

Bradford lock

The river Avon in the town centre.

Avoncliff has an impressive aqueduct which takes the canal over both the river and the railway. The Cross Guns sits between the canal and the river. We sat with Scoobs in the garden and admired it all.

On the way back Scooby found something different to stalk from rabbits, ducks and squirrels. No change to the outcome though; they always get away!

Wednesday it rained and we went down the lock at Bradford and moored outside the Cross Guns, where we met with family for lunch. Afterwards the rain eased off and we headed off down a random footpath with Scooby. We discovered the most delightful village of Winsley with wonderful views over the valley. If only we'd taken the camera.... We found a nice looking pub so an evening walk there for dinner is on the agenda for the way back.

Thursday was dry but cold and we made our way to Bath. The canal follows the contour along a steep valley side which makes for a lovely journey. It was very busy, with lots of boats coming the other way, including widebeams; lots of moored boats too. The engineers were pretty busy when they built this canal and there is a second impressive aqueduct at Dundas Wharf.

Traffic at the Dundas aqueduct

The view from the parapet

The aqueduct once the traffic had cleared

As we approached Bath, the lovely Georgian buildings began to appear, including this classy row of canal cottages.

We moored above the Bath top lock. We are still pretty high up here and we can see across the City.

The view from the towpath at our mooring.

Harold looking back down the valley we have just travelled through.

We walked down the flight to see what other mooring there might be and what the river at the bottom looks like. The canal ends at the bottom lock and exits onto the river Avon. The signpost at the lock exit told us we had travelled 75 miles since Reading, and still had 18 to go to get to Bristol Harbour.

After a visit to the Sydney gardens, we settled down to routine things like baking bread and catching up with this blog now there is more than 1 bar of 2G to be had. In the morning we will make an early start and head to the river.

To Bradford-on-Avon

7 miles, 4 locks and 3 swing bridges.

A welcome lie-in this morning. Then across the canal to top-up with water. The sun shone (make the most of it, the rain is coming) and we hoovered and laundered while we waited for the water. Nb Layla, which we have seen regularly since Reading, was going through the lock so we joined her. She has a crew of two humans, two cats (one disabled) and a dog. The canal is edged by reeds for much of the time. We saw reed buntings and a newly hatched moorhen. The views gradually diminished as we went down the four locks. Semington Aqueduct has a central reservation and is one-way. Moored nearby was the ultimate hoarder boat.

We have been seeing herons again. This one stayed put while we motored past.

We passed the spot where we spent our first night on Harold after picking him up at Semington. We stopped at the boatyard at Hilperton to fill up with diesel. Robin bought a water filter which he will fit just to make sure that water from the tank is totally safe to drink and we can dispense with the big bottles we have been using. Jo bought a lightweight aluminium windlass as an extra extra birthday present. As we approached Bradford-on Avon it got increasing busy. We saw the crew of Layla helping another boat to moor and they said it was chock a block. The canal edges are deep here, but the banks high with lots of reeds and stinging nettles. We decided to pull over and they helped us to moor too. After a bit of nettle bashing and messing about we managed to get a safe-ish exit for Scoobs.

The forecast is rain tomorrow, although it keeps changing. If so, we can pootle about in Bradford, which is a nice little town. We have a date for lunch on Wednesday, possibly at the Cross Guns at Avoncliff just a couple of miles up canal.

The adventures of Marge and Harold

4 miles, 32 locks

On  Saturday evening, Large Marge and her crew moored behind us in a space that had miraculously appeared for them. Robin discovered a Scooby walk which offered a different view of the escarpment which makes the lock flight necessary.

In the morning we set off with Marge 9.30 and after the 6 Devizes locks we were soon at the top of the flight itself.

Marge and Harold at the top

We went down efficiently despite episodic drizzle, sun and all-out rain. We got pretty wet at one point. Marks out of ten were given to helms for the neatness of moving both boats together from lock to lock. About two thirds of the way down we encountered some t**ts coming up the other way to stop us getting bored. The importance of plans became apparent when two boats going down meet two boats going up in a very small pound.

When a plan comes together!

We were almost dry again by the time we reached the bottom of the main flight.

Harold leads the charge out of the bottom lock.

Marge follows on.

At about 2pm and after 7 more locks down to the very bottom, we all boarded our respective boats again. A mile further on at Sells Green, we said goodbye to the lovely Large Marge and her crew, Laura and Alison and their visitors (all the way from New Zealand), Tracey and Chris. We had a great day and some good fun despite the weather. Both boats are going to Bristol, so hopefully they'll be reunited at some point.

Harold carried on alone (Ahhh!) through three more locks and found the perfect spot at the Barge Inn, Seend (we've been here before and we know it will be nice). Dinner was booked, the dog walked and feet washed. Tonight we'll drink a toast drunk to Marge and Harold!

Harold outside the Barge Inn  at Seend.

Devizes

5.5 miles, 0 locks, 2 swing bridges.

We made an early start as we weren't sure how much visitor mooring there is in the centre of Devizes. It was a peaceful early morning cruse interrupted by little except two swing bridges.

The water road to Devizes.

As it turned out there is plenty of 72 hour mooring opposite the wharf and within easy walking distance of the town centre.

Devizes wharf. Harold is moored on the right.

We had lunch in the wharf tea room and explored the town centre. Robin ordered medicines from our GP via a local pharmacy and Jo booked a haircut for tomorrow. There wasn't much sun, but what there was sparkled around the White Horse Hire Boats at the wharf.

Later in the day we walked some of the Caen Hill lock flight, to remind ourselves what is in store on Sunday.

At the top of the main flight.

Tomorrow we will continue to enjoy the delights of Devizes, which will include not only a haircut but also a visit to Sainsbury's with our trolley. It looks like we will be in Bristol by this time next week!

Ups and downs

Wednesday: 7 miles and 1 lock
Thursday: 2 miles and no locks

On Wednesday morning we were both awake at 5am. It was too hot to go back to sleep, so we started our day and were on the water by 7am. Apart from one lock at the start, it was plain sailing all the way, with lovely views of the chalk downs to the north.

We passed a WP boat and were wished 'happy solstice' by the crew - a first for either of us. We arrived at Honey Street about 9.30am, and unsurprisingly at that early hour, we were able to get a prime mooring spot by the pub.

We had a lovely breakfast at the Honey Street café (canalside, dog friendly with lovely garden) before exploring the village (there's not much of it).

It was getting pretty hot already so we soon retreated back to the boat and lurked under our parasol for the rest of the day. There were lots of WPs and alternative folk about, all apparently celebrating the solstice. We could also hear the booms of the army on Salisbury Plain very clearly today, the air was so still. In the evening a bit of a breeze got up and we felt confident enough to leave Scooby in the boat while we went next door to the pub for dinner. Unfortunately, there was a very odd menu and we ended up ordering paninis and chips. Even then, when they actually arrived, they were in fact slightly warm sub rolls with not very nice salad and some very manky chips. The worst pub food we have ever had - and we've had a lot of bad stuff over the years! It could be a lovely pub and has huge potential, but needs some investment by people who know what they are doing.

On Thursday it was mercifully cool and we got up at a more usual time. After going about two miles we reached the visitor mooring at All Cannings, where there is a little village shop. Robin went off to get supplies - not that there was much (although some very nice shortbread biscuits were a good find).

Investigation of the OS map revealed a nice walk up Clifford's Hill to the north so we decided to stop for the day and go explore. On the way up we went past this modern replica of a 5,000 year old long barrow - where you can have your ashes kept on a shelf!

We couldn't go in but could see down the middle - apparently there are lots of chambers inside. It felt really cold and a bit creepy!

We had a really lovely walk, although it was blowing a gale on the top of the hill and we had to take evasive action around some cattle. There were lots of wild flowers and butterflies and the views were amazing.

Looking along the escarpment back towards the white horse.

Robin and Scooby on the top.

Looking back at the way we came up

Robin and Scooby on their way down.

The evening was a bit grey and cool but no complaints from us. We head to Devizes tomorrow but there's limited mooring so we may make an early morning dash for it again. 

We reach the top and its still too hot.

4 miles
8 locks (5 going up and 3 going down again)
1 tunnel

After a hot night we went for a lovely walk in the morning; up a hill so we got a rare view of this rolling countryside. We also saw some enormous pigs, one of whom knew exactly how to deal with the heat.

After Laura from Large Marge had kindly bought us some milk at Great Bedwyn along with her own shopping, we set off. If the timing works we may be able to go down the Caen Hill flight with them on Sunday and take advantage of their two extra crew (and their general niceness). It was already hot and getting hotter. The pounds were also low, revealing the many crayfish holes in the bank.

We went up the remaining 5 locks on this side of the summit and then through the Bruce tunnel, which marks the highest point of the canal. From here it's all down hill to Bristol.

On the way in..

On the way out....

The summit is only short and it wasn't long before we got to the next lock and began our descent. We met up with a hire boat with an elderly couple and went through the first two with them. They were fine, apart from a rather dangerous manoeuvre when she went down the lock ladder and onto the side of their boat while he drove it along. They stopped before Heathy Close lock but we went on to nab the last spot in the 48 hour moorings at Wooton Rivers. By this time (about 3.30pm) the humans, dog and boat were all very hot indeed. The parasol was again much appreciated. He was too fast to take a picture of, but a large dragonfly (a proper evanrude) was zealously patrolling up and down about 100 metres of canal where we were moored.
The weather is proving a bit of a nightmare. None of the moorings have afternoon shade (the towpath is all on the south side) so the boat just continues to heat up all through the long afternoon and evening and there's no breeze to cool it down. Same again tomorrow apparently....